this whole past week our group was in Amatlan, which I have written about before -- its the indigenous community that has retained a lot of the communal land and has a strong organizing history. Anyway, we stayed for a week with families there and took small day trips to other communities in the state of Morelos to talk to rural people about farming, land, water, immigration, the environment, and so on. the meetings were pretty amazing. we talked to a 72 year old woman who is not married and still plants corn every year. she talked a lot about why she sticks to traditional ways of farming and does not use transgenic corn (which the government pressure farmers to grow). the transgenic corn (and some of you might know this already) does not allow farmers to collect seeds to plant the next year, and forces them to buy new seed every year. meanwhile, the government is trying to take the seeds that campesinos have developed over thousands of years to make a seed bank -- so essentially they are asking indigenous farmers to give their good seeds to them and grow transgenic corn. man, there is so much more that I could write about her and other people that we visited, but I want to write about the family that I stayed with, because I love them SO MUCH.
first of all, the really ironic, sad, and humbling things about visiting with and talking to Mexican people is that EVERY SINGLE PERSON says, "Our doors are always open to you, whenever you come back to Mexico, please seek us out if you need anything, or just want to say hi. this is the beginning of a relationship, a friendship, and we hope you have the trust and confidence to seek us out." Ok, first of all what a contrast to the United States. how often do we say that? and also, these people who are opening their homes and lives to us cannot even come to visit us if they wanted to. our policies to don't permit us to give back the same hospitality and the same warmth that we are received with here. when they do come to our country, we push them down, raid their homes, take advantage of them, and treat them like criminals. such an injustice.
so anyway, the family that I stayed with was so nice, kind, and welcoming that I didn't want to come back to Cuernavaca today. there are tons of people who live on their property, and I think that is one of the things that I liked best, the family was really close to one another and there was always someone in the kitchen willing to talk. First, there was the mom and dad, Doña Chimina and Don Bonaficio. They have six children, 5 of whom I met. 3 of their sons are married, and two live with their wives and children on the same property. Then there are two single sons, one who runs an internet cafe (more like a room with computers and revolutionary symbols on the wall) and one that works in a traditional medicine clinic. I shared the family with another girl from the program, and since we were feeling a little sick Raul took us to the clinic and she got some medicine (made from plants, yes). I have been feeling fine so didn't get anything (unfortunately, right? haha). to top it off there were 5 dogs, roosters and chickens, 2 turkeys, and a cat that is about to have kittens. so its a very full house, and I just had the best conversations with them about migration, what it is like to live in the US, what it is like to live in Canada, music, traveling, politics, all of it.
The oldest brother, who I didn't talk to that much because he and his family live in their own house at the bottom of the property talked with the group about his migration experience. he had gone to the US fives times, all illegally. he crossed through the desert, walking 3 days and nights and sleeping when he could, with little food and water. one time when he was walking he saw a human skeleton. can you imagine? being torn away from your family and newly born kids because there is no work available where you live, and seeing a skeleton and wondering if you are going to die and never see your family again? unbelievable. and then when he got to the United States, he made some friends, but the general feeling was one of being humiliated, put down, treated like a criminal, an animal. he cried when he told of how hard it was to not see his kids grow up, while he was working in the US. he just returned in December, and said he hopes he never goes back. and I just felt so ashamed of my country that he would be treated like that, but also so ashamed at the privilege that a lot of us have to never have to think of living our lives like that. and I sincerely hope that he never does have to go back, because it tears people's hearts in two. and I guess a reason why I didn't talk to him much at the house is that I didn't want to give him any reminder of the United States. I felt that by seeing me, he would be reminded of how small he was made to feel and how sad he was to be away from his family, and I didn't want to put that on him again, even if I did want to talk to him more about his experiences.
yesterday and today they were all like, "are you ever coming back? please come and visit us? how long are you in Mexico for? we will wait for you." And I do really want to go back because that is the best I have felt this whole time. I had to speak Spanish the whole time, and I really like the atmosphere of a close family. I think I am going to go back for a few days over Spring Break. On March 19th there is a festival where people walk across the mountain range that the town is built up against, and they walk over to the town on the other side where there is a festival. so, I think I am going to try and make that. I just have to work on my mountain hiking abilities (ahh!). I want to go back right now!
In other news, I might be starting my internship on Monday! Keep posted…
Miss you all!!
Friday, February 29, 2008
Friday, February 22, 2008
San Anton
San Anton is the name of the neighborhood that our program house is located in, and a few days ago we went on an eco-tour of the neighborhood with community activists Juan Manuel and Rodrigo. Rodrigo is amazing -- he is the ayudante of the neighborhood and I think that basically means that he is the unofficial leader that knows everyone in the community and is able to gather everyone together and propose projects. we went into the barranca of San Anton and saw the garbage that everyone throws into the barranca (ravine) and the contaminated water that runs through it. Cuernavaca is famous for its barrancas because there are many different ecosystems because of the depths of the barrancas, and they act as a cooling system for the city. It also means that it is VERY hilly.
this is a picture of the Salto de San Anton. this barranca is actually a federal land reserve, but people live in it and throw their trash in it just the same. This looks really pretty, but the water right before the waterfall is almost milky-colored. its such a hard situation though -- can you kick these people out of their homes? if trash isn't collected in the deepest parts of the barrancas or the highest ridges because it is so steep, where do these people put their trash?
There is a bad trash and water contamination problem in Cuernavaca, but the neighborhood organization has been successful at starting up some community initiatives to deal with trash and clean up the water. We visited some ecological toilets, a natural water treatment system, and two recycling centers.
because of the trash problem, the government wants to build a landfill near San Anton, have already contracted with a private company that picks up trash around the city and would help build the landfill. Rodrigo and Juan Manuel were very much against having a private company deal with the trash because they said that PASA (the company) makes money off of collecting trash, and are not going to support any initiatives to lower consumption, reuse items, or expand the small recycling initiatives. the location of the landfill has been the subject of a community struggle against the government. the proposed location is on ejido land (land that Cardenas distributed in the 1940s to meet some of the land reform goals of the Mexican Revolution) and that ejido land is near the barrancas and even though the landfill is supposed to have a protective layer, the land itself does not filter water sufficiently, so if run off from the trash gets through the protection, which it most likely will, the land does not provide a good barrier between contaminants and the ground water. so, the community is against the landfill being built there, and they actually have a report from UNAM, a very respected university in Mexico City, that says all that, plus provides 3 better locations in the state of Morelos.
even so, the government wanted to start building and there was a big confrontation in January between the community and the government. the people blocked the entrance to the building site and taxis surrounded the police so there was less repression. the municipal governor had to fly in a helicopter over the protestors to lay the first symbolic brick. but after that brick, nothing else has been done. talk about successful direct action. Rodrigo said he and other leaders have been offered bribes to let the building take place (I think he said 8 million pesos to be split between people, which is a LOT (its about 10 pesos to a dollar)) but of course he didn't accept it. but after he left and I asked what the next step is, Juan Manuel said that he is worried that there will be more police repression if things keep on the way they are -- he said in Mexican movements what usually happens to leaders is first bribes, then jail or death. which made me stop for a minute... death is a realistic consequence of action for social change.
on another note, yesterday was really great because I had a lesson in jewelry making! there is a guy who sometimes comes to the language school we are at and sells jewelry. so I got to talking to him one day (he has great politics, and I think he is involved in Zapatista solidarity in Morelos) and he offered to give me a few lessons! Lisa, one of the interns here who is really cool, took a few lessons from him when she was a student on the program and it sounded like a good idea, so we figured a time and yesterday was the first day we could fit it in. I made a pair of earrings! with a lot of help from him of course, but I am really excited to learn more and also chat about politics and social movements. although, to be real it is a little awkward when you are an American with tons of privilege and you are learning a craft from someone who makes their living doing that. I only hope that I have something valuable that I can share or give back to him. here's to more learning!
this is a picture of the Salto de San Anton. this barranca is actually a federal land reserve, but people live in it and throw their trash in it just the same. This looks really pretty, but the water right before the waterfall is almost milky-colored. its such a hard situation though -- can you kick these people out of their homes? if trash isn't collected in the deepest parts of the barrancas or the highest ridges because it is so steep, where do these people put their trash?
There is a bad trash and water contamination problem in Cuernavaca, but the neighborhood organization has been successful at starting up some community initiatives to deal with trash and clean up the water. We visited some ecological toilets, a natural water treatment system, and two recycling centers.
because of the trash problem, the government wants to build a landfill near San Anton, have already contracted with a private company that picks up trash around the city and would help build the landfill. Rodrigo and Juan Manuel were very much against having a private company deal with the trash because they said that PASA (the company) makes money off of collecting trash, and are not going to support any initiatives to lower consumption, reuse items, or expand the small recycling initiatives. the location of the landfill has been the subject of a community struggle against the government. the proposed location is on ejido land (land that Cardenas distributed in the 1940s to meet some of the land reform goals of the Mexican Revolution) and that ejido land is near the barrancas and even though the landfill is supposed to have a protective layer, the land itself does not filter water sufficiently, so if run off from the trash gets through the protection, which it most likely will, the land does not provide a good barrier between contaminants and the ground water. so, the community is against the landfill being built there, and they actually have a report from UNAM, a very respected university in Mexico City, that says all that, plus provides 3 better locations in the state of Morelos.
even so, the government wanted to start building and there was a big confrontation in January between the community and the government. the people blocked the entrance to the building site and taxis surrounded the police so there was less repression. the municipal governor had to fly in a helicopter over the protestors to lay the first symbolic brick. but after that brick, nothing else has been done. talk about successful direct action. Rodrigo said he and other leaders have been offered bribes to let the building take place (I think he said 8 million pesos to be split between people, which is a LOT (its about 10 pesos to a dollar)) but of course he didn't accept it. but after he left and I asked what the next step is, Juan Manuel said that he is worried that there will be more police repression if things keep on the way they are -- he said in Mexican movements what usually happens to leaders is first bribes, then jail or death. which made me stop for a minute... death is a realistic consequence of action for social change.
on another note, yesterday was really great because I had a lesson in jewelry making! there is a guy who sometimes comes to the language school we are at and sells jewelry. so I got to talking to him one day (he has great politics, and I think he is involved in Zapatista solidarity in Morelos) and he offered to give me a few lessons! Lisa, one of the interns here who is really cool, took a few lessons from him when she was a student on the program and it sounded like a good idea, so we figured a time and yesterday was the first day we could fit it in. I made a pair of earrings! with a lot of help from him of course, but I am really excited to learn more and also chat about politics and social movements. although, to be real it is a little awkward when you are an American with tons of privilege and you are learning a craft from someone who makes their living doing that. I only hope that I have something valuable that I can share or give back to him. here's to more learning!
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Tlamacazapa
wow I am very behind.
About a week and a half ago I went with our group to Tlamacazapa, a small rural town in the state of Guerrero. Tlamacazapa is a very poor town with water laced with lead and arsenic. A while ago now, a woman set up a non-profit to care for the people who get sick form the water and to empower the women of the village. The organization is called Caminamos Juntos (We walk together) and they have trained midwives, improved dental care, and helped young girls become teachers in the town. They have also integrated men into the process by building dry toilets (a way to conserve water and use human waste to benefit the land) and cisterns to collect water. It is a good development project to analyze -- how are they helping the community, how do they integrate community members into the decision making process, and how might they be changing the community's culture and creating divisions?
before we even got to the town (which is on the side of a mountain) we drive up a long, winding, and rocky road. we stopped to stretch out legs at one point and I took a picture of the corn growing by the side of the road:
can you believe it! the corn was growing in between rocks. The top soil must be so thin, but they walk around the mountain to try and grow even a little bit of corn in the rocks so they can eat. This isn't to sell, the people of Tlamacazapa pretty much weave baskets, collect water, grow corn, and go to church. People have no money saved up -- they weave baskets to sell in the city and if they don't weave or sell enough, they will not eat. On the left side of the photo you can see some of the palm leaves that they collect to weave with.
we got there, were greeted by people involved in Caminamos Juntos, had lunch, and then split into groups to learn about the town, collect water from the well, learn to weave a basket and make tortillas. Our guide was a girl from the town named Cristina, and she was great. She was 15 years old, but was one of the teachers that Ccaminamos Juntos trains to teach younger kids in the town. She wasn't too talkative, but pointed a lot of things out that we would have missed and if you asked her questions she would respond. I talked to her a little about Diego Rivera, and when I asked if he knew who she was she replied, "yeah, Frida Kahlo’s husband." right on.
we walked up the mountain to the well to collect water, and it was HARD. every time we thought we were almost done, we would turn a corner and find more rocks to climb up. The well was almost at the top of the mountain and the streets and paths were super steep. People climb up to the well at least twice a day to get the water that they need, and even though this is the best water in the town, it is the water with lead and arsenic in it. If you look at the people's feet, most of the women wear flimsy sandals to climb up the mountain, and we were struggling with hiking boots and full water bottles. It takes so much work for them to get water, its really amazing. And I'm sure there are thousands of more towns like Tlamacazapa.
another interesting fact is that the Coke truck comes to Tlamacazapa every day with armed guards. People buy Coke, even though they can't even get clean drinking water. The water that is sold in the town is less expensive than coke, but they buy coke anyway, which just dehydrates them. Coke has a hold on lots of small towns in Mexico, and people unknowingly support their own oppression by drinking it.
climbing the mountain was hard, then we carried the water down the mountain. hard to do without slipping. the we got to rest (whoo) at a woman's house. She taught us to weave baskets which I was actually pretty good at! I like doing crafts with my hands, and I picked up the weaving pretty well. Still, I couldn't imagine weaving for 10 hours a day, plus taking care of children and collecting water.
then we left. and we get to leave, which is such a stark contrast of privilege. many of the people in Tlamacazapa never leave the town. the water problems, economic problems, and domestic violence still continues. but we get to leave, and eventually even though I have just started, I will leave Mexico. So it is a lingering question -- when we see such poverty or experience injustice, what do we do about it when we leave?
there is so much to say about Tlama, so if you have questions feel free to ask me.
About a week and a half ago I went with our group to Tlamacazapa, a small rural town in the state of Guerrero. Tlamacazapa is a very poor town with water laced with lead and arsenic. A while ago now, a woman set up a non-profit to care for the people who get sick form the water and to empower the women of the village. The organization is called Caminamos Juntos (We walk together) and they have trained midwives, improved dental care, and helped young girls become teachers in the town. They have also integrated men into the process by building dry toilets (a way to conserve water and use human waste to benefit the land) and cisterns to collect water. It is a good development project to analyze -- how are they helping the community, how do they integrate community members into the decision making process, and how might they be changing the community's culture and creating divisions?
before we even got to the town (which is on the side of a mountain) we drive up a long, winding, and rocky road. we stopped to stretch out legs at one point and I took a picture of the corn growing by the side of the road:
can you believe it! the corn was growing in between rocks. The top soil must be so thin, but they walk around the mountain to try and grow even a little bit of corn in the rocks so they can eat. This isn't to sell, the people of Tlamacazapa pretty much weave baskets, collect water, grow corn, and go to church. People have no money saved up -- they weave baskets to sell in the city and if they don't weave or sell enough, they will not eat. On the left side of the photo you can see some of the palm leaves that they collect to weave with.
we got there, were greeted by people involved in Caminamos Juntos, had lunch, and then split into groups to learn about the town, collect water from the well, learn to weave a basket and make tortillas. Our guide was a girl from the town named Cristina, and she was great. She was 15 years old, but was one of the teachers that Ccaminamos Juntos trains to teach younger kids in the town. She wasn't too talkative, but pointed a lot of things out that we would have missed and if you asked her questions she would respond. I talked to her a little about Diego Rivera, and when I asked if he knew who she was she replied, "yeah, Frida Kahlo’s husband." right on.
we walked up the mountain to the well to collect water, and it was HARD. every time we thought we were almost done, we would turn a corner and find more rocks to climb up. The well was almost at the top of the mountain and the streets and paths were super steep. People climb up to the well at least twice a day to get the water that they need, and even though this is the best water in the town, it is the water with lead and arsenic in it. If you look at the people's feet, most of the women wear flimsy sandals to climb up the mountain, and we were struggling with hiking boots and full water bottles. It takes so much work for them to get water, its really amazing. And I'm sure there are thousands of more towns like Tlamacazapa.
another interesting fact is that the Coke truck comes to Tlamacazapa every day with armed guards. People buy Coke, even though they can't even get clean drinking water. The water that is sold in the town is less expensive than coke, but they buy coke anyway, which just dehydrates them. Coke has a hold on lots of small towns in Mexico, and people unknowingly support their own oppression by drinking it.
climbing the mountain was hard, then we carried the water down the mountain. hard to do without slipping. the we got to rest (whoo) at a woman's house. She taught us to weave baskets which I was actually pretty good at! I like doing crafts with my hands, and I picked up the weaving pretty well. Still, I couldn't imagine weaving for 10 hours a day, plus taking care of children and collecting water.
then we left. and we get to leave, which is such a stark contrast of privilege. many of the people in Tlamacazapa never leave the town. the water problems, economic problems, and domestic violence still continues. but we get to leave, and eventually even though I have just started, I will leave Mexico. So it is a lingering question -- when we see such poverty or experience injustice, what do we do about it when we leave?
there is so much to say about Tlama, so if you have questions feel free to ask me.
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
conquista y revolucion
Sometime last week we went to the Palacio de Cortes, which is in Cuernavaca. Apparantly, Cortes really liked it here, and wanted to retire to Cuernavaca. He never did, but he did build a palace for himself over the ruins (which he ruined) of an indigenous pyramid. In about 1930, Diego Rivera painted a mural called "Conquista y Revolucion" or "Conquest and Revolution" (bet you all got that one.) The mural is amazing and the colors are still really brilliant. It is to give Mexican people their history through public art, not jsut the history that the conquerors teach. Here are the pictures I took from the start to finish:
There were also two paintings on the arch in the middle of the room that commemorate Mexico's independence from Spain beginning in 1810, and the Mexican Revolution beginning in 1910:
The influence of Zapata is everywhere in Morelos. Here is another painting of him on the arch. Also, the other picture is a painting on the side of the State Justice building that has a famous quote from Zapata: "La tierra volvera a quienes la trabajan con sus manos" or (I can't remember if I have translated this yet) "The land will return to those who work it with their hands." Its hard to see, but the painting also has Zapata's cry of the Revolution: "Tierra y Libertad."
There were also two paintings on the arch in the middle of the room that commemorate Mexico's independence from Spain beginning in 1810, and the Mexican Revolution beginning in 1910:The influence of Zapata is everywhere in Morelos. Here is another painting of him on the arch. Also, the other picture is a painting on the side of the State Justice building that has a famous quote from Zapata: "La tierra volvera a quienes la trabajan con sus manos" or (I can't remember if I have translated this yet) "The land will return to those who work it with their hands." Its hard to see, but the painting also has Zapata's cry of the Revolution: "Tierra y Libertad."
Friday, February 8, 2008
afro-latino music night
wow, today was an amazing night. The program put together an intercambio (exchange) between the students in out program and other young people in Cuernavaca. So we got to speak Spanish a whole bunch to really cool people! It was really nice to have this scheduled, because when I go out and talk to people, sometimes I wonder if I am actually making some sort of meaningful connection, or if they just want to talk to me because I'm American. So tonight was wonderful because we all had something in common. I met a few really cool people and talked to them about Mexican politics, privatization, and Coca-Cola in Mexico. Apparently there is a Coke plant in Cuernavaca that pollutes the water. go figure. But we drank this pop called "Boing" which is made in a collectively run factory. So now I know which pop I will buy from now on.
The intercambio was held in this cafe called "la Comuna" or "the commune" and is a place with a whole bunch of community events and organizing meetings. I am super excited to get to know this place better, and I will also be doing my internship with an organization called "la Comision Independiente para los Derechos Humanos" (Independent Commission for Human Rights) which owns the cafe. I think I may be able to hang out there, help out, and talk to lots of community organizers and artists for my internship.... amazing.
Then a few of us and two of the people we met at the intercambio went to an afro-latino music show, which was AMAZING. It was some of the best drumming I have ever seen. And then Beto, one of the guys who took us, busted out doing african dance, and we found out later that he takes lessons from the musicians. He is this really big guy, but he moved his body so fast and in all different directions. It was probably some of the best dance I have ever seen too. And then for the last few songs, everyone was up and dancing and clapping and it was so much fun!!!!! I am really glad I found this community and hopefully I will be doing some more dancing and talking!
Then we walked back to the house and stopped by this taco place that is right on the street that our house is on. I had tacos al pastor and orchata, which is a kind of rice-milk sweet drink. three tacos and one orchata for 2 dollars... mmmm.
We had to come home kinda early because tomorrow we are going to Tlamacazapa for the day which is a pueblo in Guerrero in which many of the people have lead poisoning and lack of access to good water. Its going to be a pretty heavy day, I think. I have to wake up at 6:45, but I really needed to write this all down for y'all.
besos.
The intercambio was held in this cafe called "la Comuna" or "the commune" and is a place with a whole bunch of community events and organizing meetings. I am super excited to get to know this place better, and I will also be doing my internship with an organization called "la Comision Independiente para los Derechos Humanos" (Independent Commission for Human Rights) which owns the cafe. I think I may be able to hang out there, help out, and talk to lots of community organizers and artists for my internship.... amazing.
Then a few of us and two of the people we met at the intercambio went to an afro-latino music show, which was AMAZING. It was some of the best drumming I have ever seen. And then Beto, one of the guys who took us, busted out doing african dance, and we found out later that he takes lessons from the musicians. He is this really big guy, but he moved his body so fast and in all different directions. It was probably some of the best dance I have ever seen too. And then for the last few songs, everyone was up and dancing and clapping and it was so much fun!!!!! I am really glad I found this community and hopefully I will be doing some more dancing and talking!
Then we walked back to the house and stopped by this taco place that is right on the street that our house is on. I had tacos al pastor and orchata, which is a kind of rice-milk sweet drink. three tacos and one orchata for 2 dollars... mmmm.
We had to come home kinda early because tomorrow we are going to Tlamacazapa for the day which is a pueblo in Guerrero in which many of the people have lead poisoning and lack of access to good water. Its going to be a pretty heavy day, I think. I have to wake up at 6:45, but I really needed to write this all down for y'all.
besos.
Thursday, February 7, 2008
Carnaval
still on catch-up mode...
As someone explained to me, Carnaval is a Catholic holiday-turned-party. Tuesday (or yesterday) is the day that Jesus was first introduced at the temple, and thus his first entrance into the public. So many people were carrying little baby dolls, representing that Jesus is now seen by all people. People also dress up in these costumes.. and i can't remeber for the life of me what they are called.. but they parade and dance in them. here's a picture:
The costumes are ment to mock the Spanish, as you can see from the pointy beards. They dance stiffly and awkwardly, like the Spanish moved in armor. The Conquest has so much to do with EVERYTHING here. Mexico is a really good example of how history impacts our daily lives.
On Saturday a big group of us went to the Carnaval celebration in Tepoztlan, which is close to Cuernavaca. Apparantly it has the best Carnaval around. so we went, and there was a lot of music, dancing, little shops, etc. All of the streets had streamers above them, and it made the whole town really colorful. Here's a picture, and those white people? yep, those are some people from our program:
As someone explained to me, Carnaval is a Catholic holiday-turned-party. Tuesday (or yesterday) is the day that Jesus was first introduced at the temple, and thus his first entrance into the public. So many people were carrying little baby dolls, representing that Jesus is now seen by all people. People also dress up in these costumes.. and i can't remeber for the life of me what they are called.. but they parade and dance in them. here's a picture:
The costumes are ment to mock the Spanish, as you can see from the pointy beards. They dance stiffly and awkwardly, like the Spanish moved in armor. The Conquest has so much to do with EVERYTHING here. Mexico is a really good example of how history impacts our daily lives.
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
Xochicalco
Last Thursday we went to Xochicalco, which is an ancient pyramid site near Cuernavaca. It is in the middle of mountains, and from the top you can see very far away. Here is a view of some old rooms and the mountains in the background.
This is a picture of a smaller temple that is on the top of the larger pyramid.
This image on the side of one of the temples is Quetzalcoatl, one of the Nahua gods. His name means "feathered serpent" because quetzal means bird and coatl means serpent. This god is a mixture of the human and divine for several reasons. Feathers represent the divine and sacred, while the snake represents humanity. If you look at the picture, you can see that the snake has teeth, another representation of the god's human side. It is said that Quetzalcoatl came to earth in a human form, and studied at this temple, and so he is especially important in this area of Mexico.
This is a depiction of a priest. The imagery that I really like here is what is coming from his mouth. One curve goes up, and kind of looks like a butterfly. The other one curls down towards the ground. The curl that goes up represents him speaking to the gods (a butterfly is another symbol of the divine) and the curl that is going down represents him speaking to the people. Similar imagery is used with Quetzalcoatl, and if you look at the previous picture you can see that his tongue goes straight down, which again represents speaking to people on earth. There are also some carvings of 3 women priests on this temple, which is pretty cool and shows that women held important positions in society as well.
Its not all super-serious though. After Xochicalco we went to an old hacienda-turned-weekend-retreat for an overnight. One of our teachers' partner's family owns the hacienda, so I think the program stays there a lot for staff retreats and stuff. It was the most green I've seen since I've been here because right now its the dry season. They must irrigate, and it was beautiful.
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
raices
I figured out how to post pictures, thanks to my computer-whiz brother. Here is the one from Amatlan that I wanted to post two days ago:
This picture struck me very strongly at the time, and I will tell you why. Before we hiked to the spot for the ceremony, Nacho said that the hike was a form of self-sacrifice. He said that we would of course get tired, but to persevere and think about each action and step that we would take. He also asked us to pick up something along the way that we wanted to represent ourselves and what we were thinking about and offer that at the ceremony. As I was walking, I was thinking a lot about the importance of the land, plants, and traditions. And what I came to land on was roots, or in Spanish "raices." There are many reasons why roots are very important to me: the importance of family and tradition, my love for Minneapolis, grassroots organizing and the power of the people, and how much strength roots can have. So I picked a small plant along the way, inculding its roots.
When we arrived to the site, this tree was the first thing that I saw. I noticed its thick roots, and how strong they had to be to hold up the whole rock. I also thought it was a very appropriate formation to have near a sacred Nahua site with a people who are so grounded and committed to their land. Then during the ceremony, Nacho said something that echoed with everything that I had been thinking: "They can strip away our leaves, they can cut down our branches, but they can not take away our roots from the land." Roots are a source of strength, and for that reason losing land, culture, and tradition weakens a people. Nacho and his community have had to fight, fight really hard, against developers and business interests that want to buy their land and use it to make a profit. And Amatlan is one of the successful communities. So many others have been convinced by threats or small economic gain to leave their land and work in the city. This does not strengthen Mexico. Nacho speaks of NAFTA and free trade as a "reconquista," or the second conquest because again their land and culture are coming under attack and outsiders force them to change.
This picture struck me very strongly at the time, and I will tell you why. Before we hiked to the spot for the ceremony, Nacho said that the hike was a form of self-sacrifice. He said that we would of course get tired, but to persevere and think about each action and step that we would take. He also asked us to pick up something along the way that we wanted to represent ourselves and what we were thinking about and offer that at the ceremony. As I was walking, I was thinking a lot about the importance of the land, plants, and traditions. And what I came to land on was roots, or in Spanish "raices." There are many reasons why roots are very important to me: the importance of family and tradition, my love for Minneapolis, grassroots organizing and the power of the people, and how much strength roots can have. So I picked a small plant along the way, inculding its roots.When we arrived to the site, this tree was the first thing that I saw. I noticed its thick roots, and how strong they had to be to hold up the whole rock. I also thought it was a very appropriate formation to have near a sacred Nahua site with a people who are so grounded and committed to their land. Then during the ceremony, Nacho said something that echoed with everything that I had been thinking: "They can strip away our leaves, they can cut down our branches, but they can not take away our roots from the land." Roots are a source of strength, and for that reason losing land, culture, and tradition weakens a people. Nacho and his community have had to fight, fight really hard, against developers and business interests that want to buy their land and use it to make a profit. And Amatlan is one of the successful communities. So many others have been convinced by threats or small economic gain to leave their land and work in the city. This does not strengthen Mexico. Nacho speaks of NAFTA and free trade as a "reconquista," or the second conquest because again their land and culture are coming under attack and outsiders force them to change.
Sunday, February 3, 2008
la cana esta floreciendo
wow, there is so much to write about in the past few days, but i have to break it down. So first I will write about Amatlan, an indigenous village in the nountains about an hour from Cuernavaca.
the first thing to know about Amatlan is that it has always been in the hands of the Nauha people. during the conquest, their community saved money and bought the land from the Spanish. it has always been their communal land to farm and live on. their land is very important to them, and for this reason Amatlan is a strong organizing community and have resisted attempts by the government and businesses to buy and develop their land.
We talked with a man named Nacho, who is the partner of one of the staff in the program and who also is on the Community Land Council of Amatlan, and has recieved death threats for organizing to save and retain their communal land. Nacho is so amazing, I have a hard time articulating everything, but of course I will try :).
He first talked to us about indigenous history and culture. So much of the pre-Colubmbian history and the histroy of the Conquest informs his outlook on life and organizing. Nahua people grow mainly corn and have a storng connection to the land. From the land comes corn, and so comes life. The land is also shared by everyone and so this is why attempts to privitize land goes against their whole tradition and culture. And it made me think, this is why a job in the city is not always better.. even if they are poor farmers, they have their culture, their community, and their historical roots. how can you put a price on that?
Nacho told us Mexican history from pre-Columbian Mesoamerica to current times, and when he talked about the Mexican revolution and Zapata, he would say "nuestro general, Don Emiliano Zapata." the word nuestro ("ours") struck me is two different words. One is that I realized that Amatlan is a town probably very much like the one that Zapata come from, and as an indigenous farmer, people like Nacho are exactly who Zapata was fighting for in 1910 and they very much recognize that and claim him as their leader. The other thing is that by saying "out general," Nacho was not talking in the past, but speaking as if Zapata is still here in the present, which he very much is if people like Nacho are organizing to keep their communal land. As both Nacho and Zapata said, "La tierra es de quien lo trabaja con sus manos" or "The land belongs to those who work it with their hands."
We then hiked to the base of the mountain and participated in a traditional Nahua ceremony. I can't describe all of it, but it was about giving and recieving energy from the North, South, East, and West, the sky, and the earth. The four directions are very important to Nahua religion and one of their sacred symbols is an equal cross, like a plus sign. And it is all very much connected... the four directions represent 4 colors:
East: white (for the new sun)
West: yellow (for the setting sun)
South: red (for women and birth)
North: black (for death)
And each of these 4 colors are a color of corn.
Nacho talked more about this religion, how it was very much connected with everything that he does. The whole cermeony was very moving and a few tears escaped my eyes.
The ceremony was at a site with ancient symbols carved in the rock that dated to be about 15,000 years old (I hope I'm remebering that right). I would post the picture, but something else that I learned was that I should be careful about what I take pictures of and post on the internet. Taking a picture is like taking a part of something away for your benefit, and you have to think about what is the purpose of that picture. I did take a picture that I do really want to show you, but I can't figure out how to post that right now. It will come later.
The last bit about Nacho (for now, since I am sure I will talk to him again) is that as we drove back to Cuernavaca, he commented "la cana esta floreciendo" (sorry Spanish speakers, I can't figure out how to make accents online either) which means "the sugar cane is flowering." Apparantly there is a saying that when the sugar cane flowers, there is going to be an uprising. And the sugar can has just started to flower in the past six years. so keep posted people, Mexico fought for independence in 1810, fought a revolution in 1910, and 2010 is coming up.
thats all tonight, more to come on pyramids and Carnival!
the first thing to know about Amatlan is that it has always been in the hands of the Nauha people. during the conquest, their community saved money and bought the land from the Spanish. it has always been their communal land to farm and live on. their land is very important to them, and for this reason Amatlan is a strong organizing community and have resisted attempts by the government and businesses to buy and develop their land.
We talked with a man named Nacho, who is the partner of one of the staff in the program and who also is on the Community Land Council of Amatlan, and has recieved death threats for organizing to save and retain their communal land. Nacho is so amazing, I have a hard time articulating everything, but of course I will try :).
He first talked to us about indigenous history and culture. So much of the pre-Colubmbian history and the histroy of the Conquest informs his outlook on life and organizing. Nahua people grow mainly corn and have a storng connection to the land. From the land comes corn, and so comes life. The land is also shared by everyone and so this is why attempts to privitize land goes against their whole tradition and culture. And it made me think, this is why a job in the city is not always better.. even if they are poor farmers, they have their culture, their community, and their historical roots. how can you put a price on that?
Nacho told us Mexican history from pre-Columbian Mesoamerica to current times, and when he talked about the Mexican revolution and Zapata, he would say "nuestro general, Don Emiliano Zapata." the word nuestro ("ours") struck me is two different words. One is that I realized that Amatlan is a town probably very much like the one that Zapata come from, and as an indigenous farmer, people like Nacho are exactly who Zapata was fighting for in 1910 and they very much recognize that and claim him as their leader. The other thing is that by saying "out general," Nacho was not talking in the past, but speaking as if Zapata is still here in the present, which he very much is if people like Nacho are organizing to keep their communal land. As both Nacho and Zapata said, "La tierra es de quien lo trabaja con sus manos" or "The land belongs to those who work it with their hands."
We then hiked to the base of the mountain and participated in a traditional Nahua ceremony. I can't describe all of it, but it was about giving and recieving energy from the North, South, East, and West, the sky, and the earth. The four directions are very important to Nahua religion and one of their sacred symbols is an equal cross, like a plus sign. And it is all very much connected... the four directions represent 4 colors:
East: white (for the new sun)
West: yellow (for the setting sun)
South: red (for women and birth)
North: black (for death)
And each of these 4 colors are a color of corn.
Nacho talked more about this religion, how it was very much connected with everything that he does. The whole cermeony was very moving and a few tears escaped my eyes.
The ceremony was at a site with ancient symbols carved in the rock that dated to be about 15,000 years old (I hope I'm remebering that right). I would post the picture, but something else that I learned was that I should be careful about what I take pictures of and post on the internet. Taking a picture is like taking a part of something away for your benefit, and you have to think about what is the purpose of that picture. I did take a picture that I do really want to show you, but I can't figure out how to post that right now. It will come later.
The last bit about Nacho (for now, since I am sure I will talk to him again) is that as we drove back to Cuernavaca, he commented "la cana esta floreciendo" (sorry Spanish speakers, I can't figure out how to make accents online either) which means "the sugar cane is flowering." Apparantly there is a saying that when the sugar cane flowers, there is going to be an uprising. And the sugar can has just started to flower in the past six years. so keep posted people, Mexico fought for independence in 1810, fought a revolution in 1910, and 2010 is coming up.
thats all tonight, more to come on pyramids and Carnival!
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